The Roaring Twenties. The bold era that saw the rise of
flappers and mobsters, and the decline of traditional ways. Where prohibition
threw the tough Volstead Act with one hand and built speakeasies with the
other. It was a time of economic boom where booze, smoke and slang became the
norm. Women had rights, men had automobiles and everyone had the Charleston. An
era of excitement, unpredictability, unprecedented freedoms and the guts to use
them…. I know I’m not the only one who dreams of relocating to this decade. At
our latest Where-To-Wednesday chosen by this gal, and attended by Melissa,
Elizabeth, Becky, Chelsea, Lindsay, Anna and Neva, as soon as we stepped foot
in Capos, I knew my wish had come true. So…were we a match for the whiskey
bottles and Italian fare that awaited us? Let’s just say that Capos made us an
offer we couldn’t refuse.
Ambiance 9.5: With tributes to infamous mobsters throughout the restaurant (and yes, of course, Al Capone is one of them), it felt as though we had stepped out of the cold rain that had befallen us in real life, and back into time. Greeted first by a hostess whose make-up and hair even threw a nod to the 20’s era, the entire restaurant and all it contained, embodied the look and feel of a time when excitement and energy around the world was stirring. The hand-painted tin ceiling from which ornate chandeliers delicately hang, mixed with the cork floors and inlaid brick interior, combine to let Capos take on a personality all its own. The vintage bar is illuminated with up-lighting and boasts whiskey-based drink recipes etched onto mirrors, reflecting the unique charm throughout the restaurant. Big red oversized booths pay tribute to each of the infamous Chicago mobsters: Tony Accardo, Frank Nitti, Jim Colosimo and Al Capone, whilst various unique items displayed throughout the restaurant complete the charm and essence of a decade long before us: an original 1930’s brass cash register, a functioning 1930’s telephone booth, poker chips from the Chicago mob’s illegal gambling house, whiskey bottles and wine barrels. And just when you think you’ve seen it all – the memorabilia, the uncovered, archived vintage items, the newly crafted fixtures uniquely molded to resemble the characteristics of a past era, you remember just why you’re there in the first place: the food and wine. Let’s dive in.
Wine
9.5: A decent sized list at a price range where we can actually afford
to drink like a mobster? Yes, please. We were pleasantly surprised to find
fantastic wine at affordable prices and opted for the Unti Dry Creek Zinfandel.
Substantial enough to stand on its own - smooth, velvety and albeit full
bodied, it also complimented the food well with its subtle fruit flavors
extending layers of aroma that enhanced the essence of each dish. With wine
this good available at the bottom of the pricing scale, we can all afford to drink
like we’re heading to Prohibition. But thank God we’re not. Breathe, breathe.
Food
9: As an Italian myself, I feel I know the typical drill at the dinner
table. Large quantities of food that seem to never stop coming, served up with
a side of guilt if these dishes go uneaten, for whatever the reason. And no,
just because it would have been your third helping does not provide an ample
reason for not digging in yet again. And so, at Capos we felt prepared. We ordered
a much-paired down quantity of food for the table – with a mix of pizzas, salad
and antipasti. And yet…we were defeated.
-
Noodle Soup:
Served up as an on-the-house appetizer in a large silver-plated bowl, it was
the perfect start to the meal. Consisting of beans, noodles, tomatoes and
celery, it even had a kick of spice that was reminiscent of the feeling that
only homemade soup can provide – filling you with a warmness that comforts you
like family. Maybe it was because it was the holidays, maybe it was the
moment…but each spoonful felt like home.
-
Quattro Forni:
We were warned that Capos only makes a maximum 20 of these per day. Limit us?
Please, I don’t think so. To ensure we got the coveted Quattro Forni we called
ahead and ordered one in advance. When asked how big our group was, I told them
8 people and was informed that the Quattro Forni only served 1-2 people. Upon
hearing that, I of course, pre-ordered two. NO ONE was going to go without
tasting the Quattro Forni. Now, I don’t know what Quattro Forni actually
translates to but post-meal, I would venture to guess it means something along
the lines of “feeds a family of four, easily.” This was an absolutely massive
pie that seemed a daunting task to even have a small slice of it, let alone
finish two of these monsters. I have to wonder what kind of circumstance these
1-2 people who the pie was fit for, were in. Not having eaten in a week? Most
likely. Covered in tomato sauce topped with parmesan cheese, the pie itself was
a rich bread with an essence of garlic and oregano bursting from every bite. So
decadent and delicious, its bread consistency and flavor depth was almost reminiscent
of a donut – with crunchy, savory goodness in every bite.
-
Italian Chop
Salad: A simple salad yet packed with flavor from the colorful, zesty
vegetables that danced within it. Packed with garbanzo and kidney beans, red
onions, kalamata olives, sweet bright red peppers, spicy salami and shaved Parmesan
- the combination of sweet and tangy flavors mixed with the different textures
created a perfect simplicity of a symphony of flavors.
-
Baked
Artichokes: Rich and creamy, this thick sea of artichoke dip combines the
salty, savory flavors of provolone cream and hearty artichokes with the mild
spinach, adding a slight crunch to every bite.
Pizza: Welcome to the main event…the one we’ve
all been waiting for. With three different ovens adorning the open kitchen at
Capos, pizzas aren’t just meant to be made here – they’re meant to be made YOUR
way. That’s right, any pizza on the menu can be made as a deep dish, stuffed
crust, cast iron or Chicago cracker thin. Talk about decisions…. Let’s dive in.
-
Frank Nitti
Pizza: We opted for the deep dish and boy was it worth it. Piled high with
layers of gooey mozzarella, romano and provolone cheese, holding hints of
oregano and garlic throughout, this pizza was topped with an avalanche of
tomato sauce and finally sprinkled with bits of spinach and dollops of ricotta
cheese. Rich and delicious with every bite.
-
Italian Stallion
Pizza: Looking to try different variations of Chef Tony’s pizzas, we went
to the opposite end of the spectrum for this one. We ordered this as a thin
crust which was a perfect compliment to the natural richness of the pizza. Even
with no sauce, this one held its own with a few key ingredients that gave it a
unique taste. Topped with a light layer of mozzarella and fontina cheese, generous
slices of Italian beef and Chicago Italian sausage added a spicy richness to
this. The last and surprising ingredients to this masterpiece? Horseradish
cream sauce throws a definite curve ball that adds a spicy kick and a layer of
depth to the pizza. A must try!
Dessert:
-
Whiskey Crisp:
With Capos specializing in whiskey, we knew this dessert would be a winner. Served
up warm, with layers of baked apples, pears and Luxardo cherries mixed with
whiskey, each bite is rich and savory. Finally topped with caramel, oats and
cinnamon cooked to a crisp to add dimension, the layers of this dish work
perfectly together to create a harmony of different textures and flavors.
-
Spumoni:
Simple…yet such a staple to any Italian meal. Served as the traditional
chocolate, vanilla and pistachio flavors, the complex layers of fruit and nut
within each create a delicious and lasting flavor.
-
Tiramisu: An
Italian meal would not be complete without a taste of tiramisu. Rather than a
square, perfectly cut portion that I typically see, this tiramisu was actually
presented in a mason jar – creating a unique look for the dessert. Filled to
the brim with a mix of spongy Savoiardi dipped in espresso with a hint of rum
and Frangelico, and heavy layers of mascarpone and whipped cream, this tiramisu
was heavenly.
Service
9: Our waitress was very nice, attentive and provided us with solid
recommendations (for example – the Italian Stallion is heavy in itself – order
it as a thin crust; a deep dish would be too heavy). When the most important
decision of the night came around: “what wine to order?” she even brought out
tastes of two we had narrowed our choices down to so we could truly know what
we were in for. I love a server who loves wine as much as we do. She knew the
menu, I’ll give her that, but when it came to the restaurant itself – such as
if they had a Twitter handle, the owner’s last name - well, let’s just say
this: with so many pizzas in this joint, this gal was still one slice short of
a pie. Now keep in mind the restaurant has only been open for a few weeks, but
when we tried to tweet the restaurant name and the chef to start the chatter on
Twitter about how good the food was…well, we had to take to the net to do our own
research. Not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things, but something to keep
in mind when you’re growing your business. Know your shit.
Price
10: Now I know why Capos pays tribute to the most infamous
mobsters…this place is a steal. Hands down, Capos was our most affordable
Where-To-Wednesday adventure. For apps, pizzas, dessert and wine the total came
to (drum roll please…..) $54 a person. And that’s including tip. Thinking of
going to get pizza anywhere else? Fugettaboutit!
Noise
Level 6.5: This place is tiny. Teeny tiny. We’re talking maybe 10
tables. You couple that with the adjacent bar area and you, my friend, have a
noise problem. There are four large semi-circle red booths and the acoustics of
the room prevent inner seating from really hearing what is happening. We
actually appointed one person in our group to talk to our waitress after trying
to yell orders back and forth to no avail. I would advise coming early,
appointing your own speaker and bring a pen and paper if things really get hairy.
Good night…and good luck.
All
About The Area: On the edge of the Chinatown/North Beach fusion, this
place is stationed right in the middle of all the action. Steps away from
Columbus street, laden with lively bars and buzzing restaurants, Capos is easily
positioned to equally be the starting or ending spot to your night. And with
the Muni bus route just a half of a block away, Capos is easy to get to and
from. But with great wine, Manhattans, family style pizza and the cheapest bill
yet…why would you ever want to leave?
Overall Score: 8.9
 |
| Insider the restaurant - the corner booth we dined in at the front of the restaurant |
 |
| Etched mirrors in the bar, showcasing whiskey-based drink recipes |
 |
| View of the restaurant from the back |
 |
| Noodle Soup - the perfect start to the meal! |
 |
| Quattro Forni...is it just me or could this be a little more than 1-2 servings? |
 |
| Italian Chop Salad |
 |
| Baked Artichoke Dip |
 |
| Frank Nitti Pizza (deep dish style) |
 |
| Italian Stallion Pizza (thin crust style) |
 |
| Tiramisu |
 |
| Spumoni |
 |
| Whiskey Crisp |
 |
| Chef Tony Gemignani makes a visit to our table! |
 |
| Delicious Unti Zin we sipped on all night |
 |
| View from the outside...'til next time, Capos! |
