"Where-To-Wednesday" Adventures: Where-To-Wednesday Adventure #21: Capos

The Roaring Twenties. The bold era that saw the rise of flappers and mobsters, and the decline of traditional ways. Where prohibition threw the tough Volstead Act with one hand and built speakeasies with the other. It was a time of economic boom where booze, smoke and slang became the norm. Women had rights, men had automobiles and everyone had the Charleston. An era of excitement, unpredictability, unprecedented freedoms and the guts to use them…. I know I’m not the only one who dreams of relocating to this decade. At our latest Where-To-Wednesday chosen by this gal, and attended by Melissa, Elizabeth, Becky, Chelsea, Lindsay, Anna and Neva, as soon as we stepped foot in Capos, I knew my wish had come true. So…were we a match for the whiskey bottles and Italian fare that awaited us? Let’s just say that Capos made us an offer we couldn’t refuse.

Ambiance 9.5: With tributes to infamous mobsters throughout the restaurant (and yes, of course, Al Capone is one of them), it felt as though we had stepped out of the cold rain that had befallen us in real life, and back into time. Greeted first by a hostess whose make-up and hair even threw a nod to the 20’s era, the entire restaurant and all it contained, embodied the look and feel of a time when excitement and energy around the world was stirring. The hand-painted tin ceiling from which ornate chandeliers delicately hang, mixed with the cork floors and inlaid brick interior, combine to let Capos take on a personality all its own. The vintage bar is illuminated with up-lighting and boasts whiskey-based drink recipes etched onto mirrors, reflecting the unique charm throughout the restaurant. Big red oversized booths pay tribute to each of the infamous Chicago mobsters: Tony Accardo, Frank Nitti, Jim Colosimo and Al Capone, whilst various unique items displayed throughout the restaurant complete the charm and essence of a decade long before us: an original 1930’s brass cash register, a functioning 1930’s telephone booth, poker chips from the Chicago mob’s illegal gambling house, whiskey bottles and wine barrels. And just when you think you’ve seen it all – the memorabilia, the uncovered, archived vintage items, the newly crafted fixtures uniquely molded to resemble the characteristics of a past era, you remember just why you’re there in the first place: the food and wine. Let’s dive in.

Wine 9.5: A decent sized list at a price range where we can actually afford to drink like a mobster? Yes, please. We were pleasantly surprised to find fantastic wine at affordable prices and opted for the Unti Dry Creek Zinfandel. Substantial enough to stand on its own - smooth, velvety and albeit full bodied, it also complimented the food well with its subtle fruit flavors extending layers of aroma that enhanced the essence of each dish. With wine this good available at the bottom of the pricing scale, we can all afford to drink like we’re heading to Prohibition. But thank God we’re not. Breathe, breathe.

Food 9: As an Italian myself, I feel I know the typical drill at the dinner table. Large quantities of food that seem to never stop coming, served up with a side of guilt if these dishes go uneaten, for whatever the reason. And no, just because it would have been your third helping does not provide an ample reason for not digging in yet again. And so, at Capos we felt prepared. We ordered a much-paired down quantity of food for the table – with a mix of pizzas, salad and antipasti. And yet…we were defeated.

- Noodle Soup: Served up as an on-the-house appetizer in a large silver-plated bowl, it was the perfect start to the meal. Consisting of beans, noodles, tomatoes and celery, it even had a kick of spice that was reminiscent of the feeling that only homemade soup can provide – filling you with a warmness that comforts you like family. Maybe it was because it was the holidays, maybe it was the moment…but each spoonful felt like home.

- Quattro Forni: We were warned that Capos only makes a maximum 20 of these per day. Limit us? Please, I don’t think so. To ensure we got the coveted Quattro Forni we called ahead and ordered one in advance. When asked how big our group was, I told them 8 people and was informed that the Quattro Forni only served 1-2 people. Upon hearing that, I of course, pre-ordered two. NO ONE was going to go without tasting the Quattro Forni. Now, I don’t know what Quattro Forni actually translates to but post-meal, I would venture to guess it means something along the lines of “feeds a family of four, easily.” This was an absolutely massive pie that seemed a daunting task to even have a small slice of it, let alone finish two of these monsters. I have to wonder what kind of circumstance these 1-2 people who the pie was fit for, were in. Not having eaten in a week? Most likely. Covered in tomato sauce topped with parmesan cheese, the pie itself was a rich bread with an essence of garlic and oregano bursting from every bite. So decadent and delicious, its bread consistency and flavor depth was almost reminiscent of a donut – with crunchy, savory goodness in every bite.

- Italian Chop Salad: A simple salad yet packed with flavor from the colorful, zesty vegetables that danced within it. Packed with garbanzo and kidney beans, red onions, kalamata olives, sweet bright red peppers, spicy salami and shaved Parmesan - the combination of sweet and tangy flavors mixed with the different textures created a perfect simplicity of a symphony of flavors.

- Baked Artichokes: Rich and creamy, this thick sea of artichoke dip combines the salty, savory flavors of provolone cream and hearty artichokes with the mild spinach, adding a slight crunch to every bite.

Pizza: Welcome to the main event…the one we’ve all been waiting for. With three different ovens adorning the open kitchen at Capos, pizzas aren’t just meant to be made here – they’re meant to be made YOUR way. That’s right, any pizza on the menu can be made as a deep dish, stuffed crust, cast iron or Chicago cracker thin. Talk about decisions…. Let’s dive in.

- Frank Nitti Pizza: We opted for the deep dish and boy was it worth it. Piled high with layers of gooey mozzarella, romano and provolone cheese, holding hints of oregano and garlic throughout, this pizza was topped with an avalanche of tomato sauce and finally sprinkled with bits of spinach and dollops of ricotta cheese. Rich and delicious with every bite.

- Italian Stallion Pizza: Looking to try different variations of Chef Tony’s pizzas, we went to the opposite end of the spectrum for this one. We ordered this as a thin crust which was a perfect compliment to the natural richness of the pizza. Even with no sauce, this one held its own with a few key ingredients that gave it a unique taste. Topped with a light layer of mozzarella and fontina cheese, generous slices of Italian beef and Chicago Italian sausage added a spicy richness to this. The last and surprising ingredients to this masterpiece? Horseradish cream sauce throws a definite curve ball that adds a spicy kick and a layer of depth to the pizza. A must try!

Dessert:

- Whiskey Crisp: With Capos specializing in whiskey, we knew this dessert would be a winner. Served up warm, with layers of baked apples, pears and Luxardo cherries mixed with whiskey, each bite is rich and savory. Finally topped with caramel, oats and cinnamon cooked to a crisp to add dimension, the layers of this dish work perfectly together to create a harmony of different textures and flavors.

- Spumoni: Simple…yet such a staple to any Italian meal. Served as the traditional chocolate, vanilla and pistachio flavors, the complex layers of fruit and nut within each create a delicious and lasting flavor.

- Tiramisu: An Italian meal would not be complete without a taste of tiramisu. Rather than a square, perfectly cut portion that I typically see, this tiramisu was actually presented in a mason jar – creating a unique look for the dessert. Filled to the brim with a mix of spongy Savoiardi dipped in espresso with a hint of rum and Frangelico, and heavy layers of mascarpone and whipped cream, this tiramisu was heavenly.

Service 9: Our waitress was very nice, attentive and provided us with solid recommendations (for example – the Italian Stallion is heavy in itself – order it as a thin crust; a deep dish would be too heavy). When the most important decision of the night came around: “what wine to order?” she even brought out tastes of two we had narrowed our choices down to so we could truly know what we were in for. I love a server who loves wine as much as we do. She knew the menu, I’ll give her that, but when it came to the restaurant itself – such as if they had a Twitter handle, the owner’s last name - well, let’s just say this: with so many pizzas in this joint, this gal was still one slice short of a pie. Now keep in mind the restaurant has only been open for a few weeks, but when we tried to tweet the restaurant name and the chef to start the chatter on Twitter about how good the food was…well, we had to take to the net to do our own research. Not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things, but something to keep in mind when you’re growing your business. Know your shit.

Price 10: Now I know why Capos pays tribute to the most infamous mobsters…this place is a steal. Hands down, Capos was our most affordable Where-To-Wednesday adventure. For apps, pizzas, dessert and wine the total came to (drum roll please…..) $54 a person. And that’s including tip. Thinking of going to get pizza anywhere else? Fugettaboutit!

Noise Level 6.5: This place is tiny. Teeny tiny. We’re talking maybe 10 tables. You couple that with the adjacent bar area and you, my friend, have a noise problem. There are four large semi-circle red booths and the acoustics of the room prevent inner seating from really hearing what is happening. We actually appointed one person in our group to talk to our waitress after trying to yell orders back and forth to no avail. I would advise coming early, appointing your own speaker and bring a pen and paper if things really get hairy. Good night…and good luck.

All About The Area: On the edge of the Chinatown/North Beach fusion, this place is stationed right in the middle of all the action. Steps away from Columbus street, laden with lively bars and buzzing restaurants, Capos is easily positioned to equally be the starting or ending spot to your night. And with the Muni bus route just a half of a block away, Capos is easy to get to and from. But with great wine, Manhattans, family style pizza and the cheapest bill yet…why would you ever want to leave?

Overall Score: 8.9